Lescut

Guide · FabricHow stripe and plaid matching works in marker making

Stripe and plaid matching places pattern pieces so the fabric’s stripes or checks line up where the pieces meet in the garment. In a marker, each matched piece is placed with a chosen point, its match point, exactly on a line of the fabric’s repeat, within a small tolerance, while unmatched pieces nest freely around it.

Updated

Why does matching make a marker longer?

An unmatched piece may go anywhere it fits. A matched piece may only go where its match point falls on a repeat line, so it has far fewer places to go, and the larger the repeat, the fewer there are. That is why matching usually costs fabric.

Match only the pieces where it shows, such as fronts, pockets, yokes and cushion faces, and leave hidden pieces such as facings and linings free: they fill the gaps the matched pieces leave.

Which patterns repeat in which direction?

FabricThe repeat runsA match point lands on
Stripes along the rollAcross the rollA stripe line, at the repeat across
Stripes across the rollAlong the rollA stripe line, at the repeat along
Plaid or checkBoth waysA crossing of the two repeats

How do you mark a match point on a piece?

Put a text that reads MATCH inside the piece: its insertion point is the match point. In a plain DXF, a point or short mark on a layer named MATCH, STRIPE or PLAID works too.

In an AAMA or ASTM file, use the MATCH text: the numbered stripe and plaid reference layers travel with the piece into the cutting file but are not read as match points. Each piece has one match point, which you can switch off, or give its own tolerance, in the parts table.

How do you describe the repeat?

The fabric’s repeat lives in the nesting profile, next to the roll width:

SettingWhat to enter
Fabric patternPlain, Stripes along the roll, Stripes across the roll, or Plaid
Repeat across (mm)The distance between stripe lines across the roll
Repeat along (mm)The distance between stripe lines along the roll
First stripe (mm)Where the first stripe line lies, measured from the selvedge
Match tolerance (± mm)How far a match point may lie off its line; a piece may set its own

Measure the repeat on the fabric itself, not from the design, since fabric can shrink or skew. A tighter tolerance matches more exactly and leaves fewer places for the piece; a looser one gives the nest more room.

What does the nest guarantee?

Matching is a hard rule, like grain: a matched piece is never placed off its line beyond the tolerance to save fabric. Matched pieces get no tilt, so a stripe stays straight on the piece. The marker that comes back keeps every layer of the pieces, so the cutting room sees the same pieces it drew.

In Lescut

How to nest a striped or plaid marker in Lescut

Matching adds two steps to an ordinary marker.

  1. 01

    Mark the match points

    In your pattern CAD, put a MATCH text inside each piece that must match, at the point that must land on a stripe or check line.

  2. 02

    Upload the pieces

    Under Part libraries, upload the DXF. The parts table shows which pieces have a match point; switch one off or give it its own tolerance there.

  3. 03

    Describe the fabric

    In the nesting profile, enter the roll width, choose the fabric pattern, and enter the repeat across and along, the first stripe and the match tolerance.

  4. 04

    Start the job

    Choose the library, the number of sets and the search time. Matched pieces land on the repeat; the others fill in around them.

  5. 05

    Cut

    Download the marker as DXF and SVG with your original layers and cut it as usual.

Related

Questions

What is a match point?

A match point is the point of a pattern piece that must sit on a stripe or check line of the fabric, so that the stripes line up where pieces are sewn together. In Lescut it is marked with a MATCH text inside the piece.

Can I match some pieces and leave others free?

Yes. Only pieces with a match point are matched, and you can switch a piece’s match point off in the parts table. Unmatched pieces nest freely around the matched ones.

Can a piece have its own tolerance?

Yes. The nesting profile sets the job’s match tolerance, and a piece may set its own in the parts table, tighter for a visible front, looser for a hidden one.

Do I need to match on plain fabric?

No. With the fabric pattern set to Plain, match points are ignored and every piece nests freely.

Where should the match point sit on a piece?

At the point that must meet the same stripe or check on the neighbouring piece, usually on a seam, the centre front or a pocket’s top edge. One point per piece is enough: the rest of the piece follows the repeat.

Can a matched piece still turn?

It keeps its rotation and flip rules, so it may turn by half turns when its grain allows, but it gets no tilt, so the stripes stay straight on the piece.

What does the First stripe setting do?

It says where the first stripe line lies, measured from the selvedge across the roll. The other lines follow every repeat from there, so match points land on the stripes printed on your fabric.

What if my fabric’s stripes are not straight?

The repeat lines are taken as straight, along or across the roll. For fabric that is skewed or bowed, straighten it on the table, or allow a larger match tolerance for the pieces where that is acceptable.

Does matching use more fabric?

Usually, because a matched piece has fewer places to go. Matching only the pieces where it shows, and a tolerance as loose as the product allows, keeps the extra length small.

Try it on your own files

Upload your parts and stock, and see the nest in your browser. Every plan starts with a free trial.

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